Off the Shelf European Tailoring for Bespoke Fit


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December 02, 2017 3 min read 1 Comment

Loden wool clothing originated centuries ago in the Alpine region of Tyrol, Austria, where it was exclusively worn by the peasantry. In fact, by imperial decree, the peasants could only wear Loden wool, linen or leather. Back then the Loden wool fabric was designed to serve a purpose: to keep the people of the high Alps warm and dry through the freezing cold, wet winters. So the loosely woven thick yarns of the mountain sheep were “walked “ (German), a wet finishing process using heat, tension and soap that shrinks and thickens the fabric by up to 66%. Some consider it the first performance fabric. 
But in the early 19th Century the much-adored Habsburg Archduke Johann, brother of Emperor Franz II, would change the image of Loden forever. In 1800, after leading the Habsburg army in a disastrous defeat against French revolutionary forces at Hohenlinden, he was posted to Tyrol to represent his brother. There he fell in love with the mountains, their inhabitants, and their culture. He went so far as to adopt their local dress--especially Loden. Back at the Habsburg Court in Vienna, his sartorial style aroused suspicion, but also praise. It was, after all, the age of romanticism, and eventually the style caught on. Later, his nephew the last Emperor of Austria, Franz Josef, would wear hardly anything but Loden.  
 More than a fashion trendsetter, Archduke Johann is still celebrated in Austria today as a champion of the common people. The region of Styria, where he would spend most of his years, benefited from many civic and industrial projects sponsored by the “Styrian Prince.”
Today the Loden fabrics of the few remaining Austrian Loden mills are experiencing a resurgence in popularity as the benefits of pure natural wool are being rediscovered. What’s old is new. However, Loden today is not the Loden of centuries ago.  By using better techniques and luxury fibers from Merino Sheep or Alpaca or Cashmere the quality of the fabrics have improved dramatically. Also spurring the surge in popularity are the environmental and wellness benefits of Loden, especially when compared to synthetic fabrics. Loden is a fabric in harmony with the Alpine lifestyle.  
Authentic Loden can easily last a lifetime and even be passed down to the next generation. The pictures here are from the Loden Steiner weaver in Mandling, Austria and show the carding, spinning, preparation of the warp, weaving, fulling and finishing steps.   
raw wool before carding
1. Dyed wool ready to be carded  
carding from front
2. Metal 'combs' carding the raw wool
carded wool on conveyor belt
3. Carded wool makes a fleece ready to be separated into filaments
coiled filaments
4. Carded wool separated into filaments and coiled on spools - still no strength yet
close up of man working on spinning machine
5. The spinning process spins and spools the coiled filament - now it's thread
Woman preparing warp from far
6. Preparing the warp (threads that run the length of the fabric) for weaving - every warp thread has to be individually attached  
man on loom close shot
7. Preparing the loom
woman on loom 2
8. Tying each individual warp thread to the loom
hammer mill
9. Old fashioned fulling machine pounding the woven wool with wooden hammers
man pulling out loden from hammer walker
10. Removing fulled wool fabric from traditional hammer 'valker'
The hours of pounding hooks the microscopic barbs on the wool fibers to each other like velcro, making the fabric dense and strong.
man inspecting loden fabric
11. Every inch of fabric must be carefully inspected
hands pulling out blemish
12. Tiny knots or fiber clumps are removed
loden fabric being brushed
13. Tiny metal brushes brush up fiber ends on fabric surface
Loden can also be brushed specifically for water resistance by brushing all the fibers ends in one direction resulting in something like short fur. This method is used in our overcoats.  
finished loden in rolls
14. Finished Loden wool fabrics 

more on the history of Loden:  
"From shepherds to politics: the history of loden"
"My Austrian Jacket"
"Tracht or Austrian Traditional Costumes Part 1"
Johann Archduke of Austria:

1 Response


October 17, 2019

How to take care of loden fabric best. Best bruch for loden and how to remain it water resistant?

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